Starland, the Friendliest Homestead Community in the Mojave Desert

Projects we could use some help with -most current:

Cabin(s) & Storage

Projects/Wish List
Long-range:

New septic system
Art Space / Propane Kiln
Laundry Shed

Last Weekend...
LA fAERIES call a "Work & Play Weekend" at Starland!
June 27, 2010 by Matrix
updated 6/30/2010

The Los Angeles based fAERIE contingent, (see Los Angeles Radical Faerie Redux), arrived Friday afternoon ready to experience and explore Starland for the first time. There was yet another new-comer who discovered Starland online via a gay campsite internet listing. In total, we had eight peeps up at Starland for the weekend; three faeries [Pan, Mariner, Osiris], Dave -new-comer, Hollis -long-time enthusiast, TailFeather -Starland's newest resident, Lobo -moving into Starland as I type, and Derick -one of Lobo's friends and business cohorts who came to bring more of "my stuff" in his truck and to help out on Sunday...

I (Lobo) was pretty exhausted from moving during the last month and half of weekends, so I didn't focus as much on taking pictures. Besides, I was helping host the visitors this weekend.... you know, basically cracking the whip to get more work out of them... 'just kidding. Actually, everybody was just great. We had quite a bit of activity... TailFeather moved, configured, and made operational a new spa that we brought in the weekend before. TailFeather moved the spa by himself under a big Palo Verde tree which he also trimmed like an expert. Saturday, the faeries helped with disassembling items around Starland for either recycling or refuse, and of course they helped out with the Lobo Storage Shed project. A lot was accomplished Saturday and then in the evening, Lobo treated everyone to a home cooked meal of baked chicken, veggies, and a salad. We ate outside around a portable fire-pit. It was warm enough in the evening for some of us to sit around naked. Sunday was more of a day of rest, but my friend and a Starland long-time enthusiast, Hollis, went to Home Depot with me to purchase almost $500 in materials to finish the Lobo Shed. Also on Sunday, friend and business partner, Derick, came up with a small truck load of my stuff and to also to help out with the shed for a bit.

So in the end, Lobo got his shed exterior mostly covered -still a lot of work to go, and materials to finish the shed. Starland got some cleaning, more true garden area cleared, trees trimmed, old "lay-about" items processed for recycling, a new operational spa in an awesome location under an artistically trimmed Palo Verde tree, and new friends and enthusiasts. David, the new visitor, reports that he had a most excellent time relaxing and "connecting" with the people here and the "accepting" faerie folk. He stayed for a few extra days and made a generous donation -Thanks!

Faeries help Lobo with his Storage Shed -adding braces... you have to love these guys!

I arrived Friday afternoon with a load of stuff. No one was around, Tailfeather was still at work, Mohabee was due in the late afternoon hitching ride back in a motor home from a nude gathering in Pennsylvania, and Jesse was due to arrive Saturday afternoon. So I started to unpack, check out any new "Starland developments," and get ready to work on the shed.

The Altar Garden is always fun to observe from week to week...
The indigenous Mojave Gourd plants are popping up everywhere in the garden since the seeds have always been there, they will be encouraged. Everything else is growing rather well, even the transplanted propagated tomato suckers which are now producing flowers.

Tailfeather has been really busy trimming tree over growth in the upper garden areas and in the "circular" garden area, as well he's been clearing weeds everywhere and trenching everywhere there is a sign of irrigation plumbing. There some serious landscape renovation going on here. He also wants to start a vegetable garden. I will have pictures on that progress next weekend.

So Saturday morning, my "company boys" came up to help me with the shed. I couldn't have done it without them. Even Jesse and Mohabee helped me.

We/I got at least this far by Sunday, all four walls up and some bracing between the studs (not shown).

Next weekend I'm looking forward to finishing out the shed with exterior siding, double doors, and a roof.

We always need help at Starland... I love to cook for guests, especially those who help out.

Look for next weekend to be interesting, as the Los Angeles Radical fAERIE faction "Los Angeles Radical Faerie Redux" have scheduled and called into being an additional "Work & Play Weekend." I expect them to be visiting and hanging out with us. 'Should be fun! Two of the hot tubs should be working too.

Pictures "tell a thousand words," yes, but not everything. Anyway, check the newest pics at the "Pictures & History" page just for starters.

Fortunately, I was able to spend the last two weekends at Starland scoping out stuff to help me arrive at Starland. A lot of deliberation is currently going into the design and eventual creation of the "Utility Facility." As soon as I can figure out where the exact property lines are at the Starland homestead, we can begin exacting our plan for the first permanent utility structures.

Mean while, at least a few other cosmetic effects have been implemented. First the Laughing Boy memorial rock and planter for the tree that Trey planted in the Oasis Garden before his passing. We also prepped another planter for late friend, Sherwin, to accept a tree at some point.

The Fallowing (last) weekend, the old cascading rosemary garden planter at the Main House got a make-over... that was a lot of labor and a lot of fun in the spring desert sun... I'm not kidding, I call it sheer bliss! I call it the "Altar Garden" now since it will be an altar of sorts.

Tailfeather finally landed with his authentic vintage fixer-upper Air Steam trailer. He's living in it now and plans on restoring and remodeling it to perfection. I believe he can do it.

This coming weekend, May 22-23, hopefully I can return to Starland to bring some new plants for the Altar Garden and also begin building at least one storage shed. As well, I need to install some irrigation for the Altar Garden.

I never got the lead-free solder yet, 'still in queue is the installation of the solar system for the Shower Building and shoring up the "Lobo Trailer" (my trailer dwelling) -maybe this will make the heater work, but probably won't need a heater from this season on. Hollis and I tested the A/C, which worked well... why didn't work before? Suckin' mystery! We have enough jack-stands lying about, so we don't need those any more.

What we could use:...
-half inch and three-quarter inch copper pipe, some fittings.
-Lead-free solder still.
-1.5" PVC schedule 40 or 80 pipe and fitting; serviceable check-valve, a few 90's, 45's, and couplings in PVC.
Oh the fun we can have!

First is "Tail Feather ("a steadying guide behind forward movement") as he puts it. Our new resident has expressed an interest in "community," living at Starland, and helping it grow. We (the Starland Committee) are happy to welcome Tail Feather, as we discovered during the last Committee Meeting that Tail Feather is not only a decent guy but extremely handy. He has his own Air Steam trailer to bring to the property to live in and should now be living there at Starland as I write this. There's more, but come, make a visit and meet him yourself.

Next will be ole' Matrix (aka: Lobo Solo -since he's no longer partnered -hint hint)... Yes, I'm finally making the long awaited move. I hope to be as much of "force" -mover and shaker, as I profess to be. I've been wanting to move to and live at Starland since I discovered it. I can't tell you how happy and excited I am to be coming there... for certain this time. I expect to start moving there as of June from my place in Tujunga. Hollis has graciously offered me my former fifth-wheel 27' trailer to live in "until my dream home is built." I accept!

There will be much to do and I look forward to working with Tail Feather.
I am promising a more comfortable Starland, a functional Starland, and an "esthetic" Starland. I'm very anxious and excited to finally start implementing the hot water solar for the shower building and another solar system for the large spa. Speaking of which, Tail Feather is already making a joint effort with me to fix and get the large spa back up and running. He has also discovered the fixes of the septic system for the Vista Arroyo cabin... this will be a great Summer for Starland! This is just for starters.

What do I know?? I don't even live at Starland, but I sit at home here in Los Angeles and edit the website...
I'm one of Starland's greatest fans... problem is, I work too much in the city and don't get enough time over there at Starland..

But today, I'm trying to post an article on septic systems I found in a mag I picked up from Home Depot, it's called "Green Builder" ("Defining Green" March 2009 issue) ... see the article "Flush and Forget" at www.greenbuildermag.com. I found this article very informative... and Starland needs another septic system... I'm wondering what it would take to put a "good" one in that is ultimate green-friendly. The article gives several designs.

In the mean time I'm researching if it's possible to build our own septic system.

If you are going to install a homemade septic tank you will need to learn 3 things:
· Depth of the seasonal water tables.
· Perk rate of your soil.
· Your state and local code requirements.

The code requirements are easily obtained from your health or zoning office. However I will warn you they are not the easiest documents to translate. The water tables and perk rates are not so easy to get because these tests have to be performed on the property and unless you have done soil borings or perk tests before I would STRONGLY suggest hiring a certified septic designer to perform these tests. This will cost you $200 to $500 but is well worth the investment if you are going to to it yourself.

I have seen many times where the homeowner has gone through the time and trouble to install a homemade septic tank only to have the state inspector show up after the job is done and tell them the system is not up to code and it will have to be re-done. Not a fun thing to have happen, particularly when they often will not let them live in the house until the replacement system is installed. Best to have a professional involved that can help prevent these errors.

The soil borings will tell you how deep you can have your drainfield (you will need 3 to 4 feet of dry soil between the bottom of your drainfield and the seasonal water tables) and the perk rate will tell you at what rate the soil will take water (if the soil perks too slow, the home will put out water faster than the soil can accept it causing overloading, if it perks too fast the sewage will not be properly treated). Once you have this information you can get started.

When you know where you are going to install the homemade septic tank, stake off the area to prevent heavy equipment from driving over the ground and compacting the soil. I always suggest over-building your system. If you have a 2-bedroom house (the number of bedrooms are what is used to gauge the size of a septic system. 75 gals per day per person. Potentially 2 people per bedroom=150 gals per day. 3 bedroom home=450 gals per day) you should build the system for 3 bedrooms...3 bedrooms, size it for 4, etc. You will also want to factor in other information into the size of the system, i.e. daycare or beauty salon operating in the home, frequent entertaining, etc.

Before you say this will add a lot of money, understand this, the biggest cost of a septic system is A tank and drainfield, not the size of the tank and drainfield. To increase the size of a system to the next level will usually only add a few hundred dollars.

The minimum size of the tank should be 1,000 gallons, preferably 1,250 or 1,500 gallons. Two 1,000-gallon tanks are even better (the more tank area you have for settling the better). Install an effluent filter in the exit baffle just after setting the tank.

The drainfield should be made up of 4 to 6 legs.” Longer shallow trenches are better than short and deep because you get more evaporation. I prefer trenches be 24” to 36” wide and 24” deep, 12” of 3/4“ to 1½” rock, 4” PVC distribution pipe with ½” holes, cover the pipe up with 2” of rock, cover with geo-tech fabric (to keep the top soil from filtering down into the drainfield trench), then cover with top soil. The trenches should be 25’ to 100’ long. The bottom of the trench and the pipes should be level or no more than 4” of slope per 100’ (you don’t want the effluent to flow downhill and load up one end). Chambers are also a great alternative to using rock.

If you are on flat land you will want to use a distribution box where the individual lines branch out from. On flat land you will also want to crown the area over the drainfield to divert rain and snow melt.

On sloping land you will want to use a drop box system. This is where the trenches are perpendicular to the slope, when the first trench fills up the effluent spills over to the next trench located 6’ to 10’ further down the hill, then to the next trench and so on.

Note: Many states now require you include an area for the replacement drainfield (when the first one fails) when you design the system. Instead of just designing it on paper, save the (future) higher labor/material costs and put it in now. Then use a diverter valve to switch from one field to the other every few years.

The tank should be a minimum of 10’ from the house and the drainfield should be 100’ away from the well (FHA regulations), 50’ to 75’ away from a body of water and a minimum of 10’ away from lot lines. You also want the tank as shallow as possible for ease of servicing…you do not want to dig 6 feet every time you want to pump/inspect the tank. Of course these guidelines are based on a typical system. If you need an engineered system because you have heavy clay that won’t perk or high water tables you are opening up a whole can of worms.

Find a good designer, have them do the soil tests and get their advice. Also make friends with the local inspector...tell him you want his/her help with your system. If you come across like a know-it-all-jerk he/she will not go out of their way to help you and can make your life a living hell.

At any rate, once you get your system installed make sure you start using it properly. Failing septic systems are a widespread problem in the US & very costly to homeowners, with replacement costs often running from $5,000 to $20,000 or more. For more information, you can go to http://www.laundry-alternative.com/septic_system_maintenance.htm

This article borrowed from website URL: http://www.laundry-alternative.com/homemade_septic_tank

#1 Construct a small septic system: http://www.wikihow.com/Construct-a-Small-Septic-System
#2 Eco-nomic: http://www.eco-nomic.com/septic.htm
#3 small link. SepticTank

What is a Septic Tank?

Septic Tanks are the ideal, economical and trouble free sewage bio-digesters. It is believed the septic tank system was first introduced to South Africa by the British military in 1898. The term �septic� refers to the anaerobic bacterial environment that develops in the tank and which decomposes the waste discharge into the tank. A septic tank is basically a vessel buried underground, the purpose of which is the collection, storage, and to some limited extent, treatment of sewage. A typical septic tank system normally operates by gravity, and consists of a tank and a soakaway drain. Untreated waste water from a property flows into the septic tank, where the solids separate from the liquids. Some solids, such as soap scum or fat, will float to the top of the tank to form the scum layer. Heavier solids settle to the bottom of the tank as sludge. Self forming bacteria in the tank help the system digest these solids or sludge where a natural process of anaerobic decomposition occurs in the tank which reduces the amount of solid matter and provides some treatment of the waste. The remaining liquids flow out of the tank to a soakaway and eventually get taken up through the root system of plants or added to the groundwater. Baffles built into the tank hold back the floating scum from moving past the outlet of the tank.

Septic tank care is crucial to maintain a healthy septic system. Although the septic system is quite self sufficient, there are things you can do to help the system work efficiently. Microbes in your septic system will naturally break down the organic material that drains into your septic tank. The broken down material will naturally drain out of the septic tank and into the soakaway. There are some solids that cannot drain out of the septic tank and this is normal. Regular septic tank care requires you to desludge these solids every 3 � 5 years. The size of your septic tank, the amount of use and the kind of products you allow into your drains will determine how often your septic tank will need to be desludged.

What not to put in your septic tank?

Uncontrolled use of disinfectants or chemical cleansers, especially as is often the case at institutions such as hospitals, schools and hotels, may inhibit the natural bacterial activity. Industrial or other potentially toxic effluent should not be allowed into septic tanks.

Coarse, non-degradable solids such as coffee grounds, cigarette butts, facial tissues, plastic bags, bottle tops, sanitary towels and nappies, must NOT be deposited into the septic tank.

What is a Soakaway?

The soakaway is an underground soil treatment system, which receives partially treated sewage from the septic tank. The soil on a site must be suitable for a soakaway to work properly. Soil that is too coarse, too fine or impermeable, can limit the effectiveness of the treatment system. It is imperative that effluent from a septic tank is not discharged into a river, vlei, etc as it is by no means, in terms of health, fit for animal or human consumption. The size of your septic tank soakaway is determined by the size of your septic tank and the size of your dwelling. It cannot be built near any open water such as a river or vlei because of the possibility of seepage from the soil into the water.

What is a Conservancy Tank?

A conservancy tank is any covered tank without an overflow which is used for the reception and temporary retention of sewage and that requires routine emptying at intervals.

GreaseTrap

What is a Grease Trap?

Grease traps are commonly used on the waste pipe from the kitchen, with the object of removing as much grease and fat as possible. Grease traps have special merit at a restaurant or kitchen where excessive amounts of fat and oil are likely to be released, which may cause accretions in the sewers or rapid accumulation in the septic tank. In a household the amount of solid matter contributed by the kitchen nowadays is quite considerable and it certainly seems worthwhile to remove the fatty material, as it would reduce the quantity and tenacity of the scum formed in the tank.

The proper function of a grease trap is very much dependant on the regularity with which it is cleaned. The design and construction of grease traps should provide for conditions, which are suitable to allow the fat in suspension to rise and collect at the surface.

#5
County Requirements: Minimum Septic Tank Size = 1000 gallons
3 bedrooms = 1000 gallon tank
4 bedrooms = 1200 gallon tank
5 bedrooms = 1500 gallon tank